Keeping Chickens - A Beginner's Guide

Making your own hen house: You can make your own coop if you're handy. The house must have a perch for the hens to roost on at night, a nest box for laying eggs and preferably a little extra space for a feeder. Current guidelines:

floor space of the coop - at least one square foot per hen
minimum of 6 inches of perch per hen
one nest box is suitable for up to 8 hens

The run should either be covered or the fences should be about 5 foot high to stop hens escaping.

Bedding: We use wood shavings. They are more expensive than straw but last longer. Bedding should be changed regularly (every 1 or 2 weeks). We mix Diatom powder into fresh bedding to keep the coop free of insects. Wood shavings and hay are available in our shop.

Caring for your hens

Collecting your hens: You will need to bring a container to carry your hens home. Cardboard boxes with air holes, cat carriers, poultry crates and dog cages are all suitable depending on how many hens you want. To prevent hens from slipping, place newspaper or straw in the bottom of the box. Keep the car cool while travelling. Hens do not need food or water while travelling even if you have a long journey. Please advise us if you would like your hens' wings to be clipped to prevent them from flying.

Feeding: Hens should always have layers pellets available; they will not overeat these. Each hen needs approximately 1kg of food per week. Do not limit their food as egg production will fall. In the summer hens do not require any other food, although free-range hens will forage and small amounts of mixed corn or wheat can be fed as a treat. In the winter layers pellets should be combined 3:1 with mixed corn or wheat, both of which are higher in calories. The extra calories are needed to keep hens warm and therefore help egg production during cold spells. Too much however can make your hens fat and prevent them from laying! Fresh water should be available at all times - allow at least 1/3L per hen each day. Mixed poultry grit should be given to hens in runs. It comprises small pieces of flint that aid digestion and broken oyster shells which provide extra calcium. A separate container should be used for grit or it can be scattered on the ground. We have layers pellets, wheat and mixed grit available for sale.

We supply all of these health products in our shop and online, as well as poultry tonic (vitamin/mineral supplement) and apple cider vinegar (homeopathic remedy with many health benefits).

Other problems: If you are concerned about a hen please see our 'Hen Health' page or visit your vet as many conditions can be easily treated if they are diagnosed early.

Predators: Always lock your hens safely in their coop overnight to protect them from predators: foxes, badgers, stoats and dogs can kill hens.

Introducing new hens to your flock: It is best to introduce new hens to your coop on an evening after your existing hens have roosted for the night. Hens are more docile at this time. Watch the hens carefully when you let them out the next day. There is always a little bullying as they sort out the pecking order but this should soon settle down. Ensure your new hens are getting plenty of food as the existing flock often prevent them from eating (see pecking order above). Lack of food reduces their immune system, causes weakness and if prolonged they will starve!

If you would like a more in depth introduction to starting with chickens, we run short courses at Durham Hens.

Preparing for your hens

Free-range or run: Whether you keep your hens free-range, where they sleep in a coop and roam freely during the day, or contained within a run will depend on your circumstances. Free-range is great if you have the space but hens can be happy in a run, providing they are not overcrowded, and they will also be safer from predators.

Hen Houses: There is a fantastic range of hen houses available. Some have integral runs, others have detachable runs and some are designed to stand inside an enclosure or be used for free-ranging birds. Wood is the traditional material but now there are modern plastic ones that provide a practical alternative. These are easy to clean, long-lasting and do not need protecting from the weather. Please see the following pages for more details: 'Hen Houses - Traditional Timber' and 'Hen Houses - Modern Plastic'.

Choosing your hens: Hens for laying eggs are usually purchased at point of lay (16-24 weeks old). Most hens start to lay between 22-26 weeks but this depends on the breed, e.g. Buff Orpingtons will not lay before 30 weeks of age. Buying at point of lay means you will have the hen for its full laying life. It is worth buying good-quality, young hens that will lay well as it can be frustrating to look after and feed older hens which do not give you eggs in return (you get what you pay for!). Please see our 'Hen Breed' page for details of the breeds we stock.

Cleaning the coop: The coop should be cleaned thoroughly several times a year (more often if you have red mite). We use Poultry Shield, an effective cleaner designed for poultry sheds. It kills all organic matter including red mite but is safe for your hens. We sell it in our shop and online. Most household bleaches and cleaners are not suitable.

General Health:
Vaccinations: Our hens have been vaccinated against most serious poultry diseases and these vaccines give life-time cover. Click here for details.
Worming: Hens need to be wormed approximately every 3 months. We use Diatom powder or Verm-X pellets, natural products applied to food.
Fleas & Lice: To treat and prevent fleas and lice, apply Diatom powder to dust baths or directly onto the hens (especially under wings and around bottoms).
Moult: Hens moult at regular intervals (12-18months). They may look scruffy as they lose their old feathers and grow new ones. Most hens will stop laying temporarily through their moult. This is a natural process that can be accelerated by adding Poultry Spice to their food.